Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Soup is Good Food

    The sky is gray and threatening rain. A chill wind is blowing and the air is cold and damp. It is soup season in Northern California. While I love, love, love all of the fruits and veggies available during the summer months, my favorite dishes and my favorite cooking techniques are those we turn to during the colder months. Hearty dishes, stick-to-the-ribs dishes, like braised meats served with polenta, stews filled with vegetables and potatoes, beans with sausage and sauerkraut, lasagna, chili, chicken and dumplings, and of course soup.  Vegetable soup with fresh dill and a dab of sour cream on top; navy bean soup with ham hocks, split pea, cream of potato, seafood chowder, beef barley with mushrooms, lentil, chicken with wild rice, turkey noodle, and clean-out-the-vegetable-bin soup; the list could go on and on. Many people figure there is no need to make homemade soup today because of the availability and wide variety of commercially prepared soups, but homemade soup is another animal all together. There is just no comparison.
    No store bought soup will fill your home for hours with the appetizing scents homemade soup generates. When a family member walks through the door from the cold outdoors they are met with tantalizing, warming aromas that say "welcome home." Homemade soup warms you inside and out because it says someone cared enough to take the time to make something special. Most soups are also amazingly economical to make and incredibly healthy for you as well. Even the richer cream soups can be made less fattening by substituting fat free half and half or fat free evaporated milk when cream or whole milk is called for. Making soup does not have to be complicated either. You can make a large batch of several different types of stock in one weekend to freeze for later or simply use one of the commercial stocks now so readily available. While there is a bit of prep work involved in making homemade stock it mostly involves allowing the ingredients to simmer for several hours, then straining and perhaps de-greasing.
    One of my favorite things to do is make a hodgepodge soup. This is comprised of whatever suitable ingredients I have on hand. I usually have a low salt commercial chicken base available  to use in place of homemade stock and canned tomatoes, of course. Onions and garlic always, carrots and celery most of the time, potatoes maybe, perhaps some cabbage or spinach, maybe a can or two of some kind of beans. If I have frozen peas or green beans they might go in. Seasoning generally includes a bay leaf or two. If I feel like "Italian," flavors a bit of rosemary and oregano might go in. Otherwise I might follow my Grandpa Ritter's direction and add some dill, along with a generous dose of black pepper. If I have a couple of pieces of leftover chicken in the frig I may shred them and throw in or a  bit of ham or sausage. Just be careful of the quantity of ingredients because a pot of soup has a way of just getting bigger and bigger.
    I begin the actual cooking process by chopping onions and garlic then sweat them a bit in a small amount of olive oil (sometimes I add the celery and carrots to this mix as well, but not always), then liquid ingredients are added, the other vegetables that require long cooking, and let it all simmer on the back burner until everything seems to be done, adjust the seasoning if needed, then throw in pasta or rice or anything that doesn't really need to cook for very long to finish things off.
    I like to accompany this type of soup with thick slices of fresh sourdough bread or one of the artisan breads our local supermarkets now carry. We might also have some type of cheese.   a Additionally, this is the perfect type of simple meal that allows for a splurge at the end - any thing that suits your fancy that compliments the type of soup you are serving - old fashioned baked apples, gingerbread with a dollop of whipped cream,  chocolate pudding, pineapple upside down cake, cherry crisp.
    I am hungry now and hear my soup pot calling. I hope you will give soup making a try.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Eating As An Experience

    Food is more than just sustenance for me - it is a passion. I spend time reading about the food industry, gardening, and cooking. I watch cooking shows and gardening shows. I garden and obviously I cook - alot.  I read cookbooks like other people read novels.  I love to grocery shop. I was recently telling a friend about my first trip to a Whole Foods Market. I was very animated in the telling. He laughed, saying I was one of the few people he knew who could get excited about a grocery store (of course he is a "foodie," himself so he totally understood). I usually plan tentative dinner menus for the week on Sunday, but often am thinking about alternatives while I am eating breakfast. My husband, on the other hand, is one of those people who thinks about what to make for dinner around five o'clock! He looks at me like 
I am crazy if I try to discuss dinner plans with him at seven in the morning.  It takes me weeks to plan a menu for a dinner party. Everything has to be taken into consideration - colors, textures, flavors, scents, seasons, atmosphere. 

    I can remember even as a teenager paying attention to these things: taking a walk on a sunny fall afternoon with an apple in hand - its' skin a dappled red and green, probably a Macintosh; the scent of drying grass in the air; enough of a chill to require a light jacket; the trees ablaze with russet reds, maroon, orange, and gold; the sunlight soft and filtered; that first bite of apple;  the crunchy, crisp texture, the sweet-tart flavor, the juice running down my hand. Apples and autumnal walks are forever companions in my memory.

    Food memories are created when we pay attention to involving all of our senses. I love to take out-of-town guests on a picnic to the Napa Valley wineries to do just that. There are many excellent restaurants in the Napa Valley, however, eating outside provides the opportunity to not just experience food, but the place, as well as the season. Besides visiting a few wineries, I like to stop at several different locations along the way to pick up food for our picnic. Sonoma is a favorite place to begin. There is the Sonoma Bakery for bread and pastries, then the Sonoma Cheese Factory for cheese. There is also a wonderful French bakery in Yountville which is directly on the way to St. Helena, our usual destination. We always visit the Sattatui Winery in St. Helena. The wine tasting is still free, plus they have a fantastic deli with oodles of different kinds of cheese along with other wonderful things to eat, including pates. The winery grounds are lush and lovely dotted with a generous supply of tables so visitors may enjoy their purchases on site, but my favorite spot to picnic is our last stop - the Napa Olive Oil Factory. 
   
    The Napa Olive Oil Factory is housed in a small white wooden building at the end of a dead end street. It resembles a garage from the outside, but inside it is what I imagine an old Italian grocery store might be like. You step across the threshold, inhale, and immediately are transported by the scent of cheese, dried mushrooms, and herbs. The lighting is a bit dim and the ceilings low, but the two small rooms are filled from top to bottom with all manner of good things to eat. Salami and other dry sausages hang in rows from the ceiling. Dried, earthy smelling mushrooms sit loose in a huge open barrel. The Olive Oil Factories' olives and herbs are all packaged in small clear plastic bags; their olive oil in simple glass quart size bottles or gallon jugs. An old open refrigerator case holds fresh sausages like soppresatta as well as fresh cheeses like mascarpone, ricotta, and little balls of mozzarella. We always buy some of the giant green olives (theirs of course), and sometimes the shriveled, salty, oil cured black olives; a small Italian dry salami, a bag of the best grated Parmesan cheese ever, and real Italian Fontina cheese. Wheels of Fontina are kept in a glass case with several other varieties of cheese. Chunks of cheese are hand-sliced as needed, wrapped in white butcher paper, and tied up with string. There is no fancy cash register. The owners simply total your purchase with a pencil on a piece of scrap paper, then pile everything into a paper bag or a cardboard box. Outside, next to the gravel parking lot, is a small picnic area with a half-dozen or so old wooden  tables set up in a grove of olive trees.There are never any crowds to compete with here. We spread  our well-used table cloth on one of the tables, open a bottle of wine, and share the repast we have picked up along the way. Cheese, salami, bread, wine and olives - a simple meal that tastes oh-so-rich when eaten out of doors. The sun is warm on our backs. The sound of bees can be heard. We can smell the scent of rosemary blooming close by and can imagine ourselves transported to some spot in the Mediterranean. If we are lucky, we will also have deliciously sweet, decadent French pastries to enjoy for dessert. Our guests always remember this experience.

   You don't have to take a picnic to wine country to have an "eating experience," however. All that is necessary is to become fully aware while you are eating. Be mindful.  Inhale the scent of each dish, inhale the scent of your surroundings. Pay attention to the color of the food, the colors around you; the composition the food creates on your plate; the texture as well as the flavor of the food. What is the mood or atmosphere of the place where you are eating? Is there music playing? What is the lighting like? Is it warm or cool? Being aware of all of these things helps us to more fully enjoy and appreciate the food we are eating. It helps to create "food memories." 

     I am a huge fan of picnics, however, and believe everyone should have at least one bonafide picnic basket, something that says "romance," or "adventure." It needs to have an identity that sets it apart from other baskets and containers.  I have three. I keep one stocked with a table cloth, cutting board, bread knife, salt and pepper, paper plates and napkins, plastic flatware and cups, and a wine bottle opener. We can just grab a cooler andpick up and go should the mood strike. So, here's to creating food memories, be it picnics or a dinner on your own patio. Pay attention, be aware, and enjoy!   
   
l      

Friday, October 8, 2010

Planned Overs - More Bang for Your Buck!

    The most expensive item in most people's food budget is meat, for those who eat it. This is a good reason for reducing your consumption, which of course also has potential health benefits. We did not consume large quantities of meat in our home when I was growing up - we couldn't afford to - there were always at least six of us at the table. My mother was the queen of stretching a pound of ground beef. We ate a lot of casseroles so I learned early on how to extend a small amount of meat. My mother also taught me to buy the largest roast I could afford when it was on sale, then plan multiple meals around it. She always purchased whole chickens and often cooked two at a time. We were usually allowed one piece of fried or roasted chicken the first night it was served, the remainder went into a casserole during the week and maybe a pot of soup as well. Fast forward to my adult life where I only cook for two on an every day basis.
    I still purchase large roasts and whole chickens, however, as well as extend the meat I do cook using grains, potatoes, vegetables, and pasta. I also have a freezer, which I consider to be indispensable if you are trying to eat cheaply. Meat can be purchased on sale and frozen for later use; leftovers, or planned-overs can also be frozen. Additionally, I buy rice in bulk and keep it in the freezer along with other grains such as corn meal, polenta, and whole wheat flour. My husband and I like lasagna, with or without meat. Obviously a full pan of lasagna is way too much food for two people so I divide it up, wrap in foil, put the packets in freezer bags, label and freeze. The bonus is a ready-to-go meal for a night when I don't feel like cooking or have time. Our local grocery stores, as well as the big box warehouse stores, often sell whole pork loins. Per pound, these are inexpensive, so I purchase a whole loin, cut it into smaller portions, wrap, label, and freeze.
    This past week  I was able to create three dinners from one whole chicken. The first night we enjoyed roast chicken with roasted potatoes and carrots and steamed spinach. Two nights later I made a chicken stew using a portion of the chicken, the leftover potatoes, some carrots, onions, celery, peas and good old Campbell's cream of chicken soup(98% fat free) - this also provided lunch for the two of us the following day. Tonight the remainder of the chicken will be used in a filling for flour tortillas along with some leftover rice, whole pinto beans, salsa, and cheese; served with a nice green salad we have a complete meal.  I was also able to stretch a small London broil for three dinners and two lunches this week. The first night we had it grilled and thinly sliced served along side fresh corn on the cob, sliced garden fresh tomato, and cucumber. The following day it was combined with lettuce, tomato, and cucumber in pita bread sandwiches and last night I added the remainder to an Italian flavored melange of chopped tomatoes, onions, finely chopped carrots and celery, and served this over fresh corn polenta (which also provided lunch for today). I spent a total of $11.11 on meat for the week. During a typical week I do not usually serve this much beef; after the first night the leftovers go in the freezer. This particular cut was a splurge; it was on sale, but antibiotic and hormone free so the price was a dollar more per pound than regular London broil, also on sale. There was, however, a definite difference in the flavor compared to regular beef so I really wanted to use it up instead of freezing it. Iincreasingly, I find myself thinking about reducing my meat consumption further so I could afford to buy organic, natural, free range products all of the time. They do taste better and I know are better for me as well as the environment. As of yet, I just have not been able to bring myself to spend $10 on a chicken, however. 
    We also enjoyed two non-meat dinners this week: eggplant parmigiana served with pasta and steamed broccoli; and little ahi tuna steaks with a mango-curry glaze, pink rice, and a salad comprised of mixed greens, sliced pears, toasted walnuts, a bit of blue cheese, and a pear vinaigrette. 
    It was a very tasty week of cooking! I hope I have been able to give you some ideas on how to stretch your meat budget, whatever type of meat you buy. Happy cooking!

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

A Corn-ucopia of Ideas!

    This past weekend a local grocery store had a terrific buy on local sweet corn - eight ears for a dollar. My husband absolutely loves corn and I am a big fan of fresh corn as well, but it is just the two of us. There were many summer nights, when I was a child, when fresh corn on the cob comprised our entire dinner -  well most of it anyway - a big steaming platter of bright yellow ears of corn, butter, salt, and usually a plate of red, juicy, beefsteak tomatoes right from the garden. There might also have been some sliced cucumber or a a cucumber salad (cukes, onion slices, sour cream, salt and pepper, vinegar, and a little sugar). We loved it! We were allowed to eat with our hands, get messy, and not get scolded! Corn, butter, tomatoes - what could be better?! This was usually followed an hour or so later by slices of sticky sweet ice cold watermelon which we ate out of hand in the yard where we could engage in seed spitting contests. I know seedless watermelon has become very popular, but to me they are often rather tasteless. I think the seeded varieties have far more flavor - not to mention richer color.

    If I had been thinking ahead during my grocery shopping I would have considered buying even more than eight ears of corn and freezing it, but the reality is, I am not as fond of frozen or canned corn as I am of fresh. We do eat it occasionally during the winter months for variety, but it is not my favorite because freezing and canning both alter the texture. I usually mix it into chilies and other dishes or make scalloped corn or homemade creamed corn. There are a great many ways to use fresh corn, however, besides the basic butter and salt on the cob. Grill it or simmer it in water for a few minutes, then add a squeeze of lime juice and sprinkle of chili powder for Southwestern flavor, or sprinkle on some chopped chives or chopped cilantro. It can also be prepared Mexican street style - slathered with mayonnaise then rolled in Parmesan (or similar) cheese. There are numerous variations of this. Check out "America's Test Kitchen," for a version that sounds amazing, albeit far more complicated.

    Scrape the corn off the cob and there are even more options. It can be added to creamy polenta but instead of using  the traditional Parmesan cheese try mascarpone, blue cheese, a smokey Gouda, or even a pepper jack; chives or cilantro could be used as a garnish; bacon or pancetta could also be added. Fresh corn risotto is another terrific option. Be sure to scrape the cobs so you get the corn "milk," because this adds additional corn flavor. Risotto offers a lot of opportunity to be creative with the type of cheese used and by adding ingredients like ham, sausage, bacon, or pancetta.  

    Succotash is an old fashioned corn dish using corn kernels scraped from the cob - corn, onion, lima beans, butter and a little milk or cream at the end. I make a contemporary version - saute' some chopped onion and chopped fresh chili like Anaheim or Poblano or even red bell pepper (or both) in a little olive oil, then add the corn, lima beans or pintos or kidney beans, and chopped zucchini; cook until the corn and zucchini are crisp tender. Season with salt and pepper, garnish with parsley, chives, or cilantro. Fresh corn is also good added to corn bread or corn muffins; and there are always corn cakes and corn fritters - many variations available, just check out websites like Food network, Bon Appetite, and Cooking.com. I have even seen dessert recipes that use corn with fruit like blueberries!

    Hopefully I have given you a lot of good ideas for cooking with  fresh corn - maybe you will be lucky enough to find a good late season buy like I did - it is October after all! Happy cooking! 

Monday, October 4, 2010

Is It Thyme Yet?

Fresh herbs add flavor dimensions to cooking that cannot be achieved with dried herbs alone. After years of reading cookbooks & magazines, watching television programs, and simply experimenting, one thing I have learned for sure is that learning to layer flavors is essential to achieving a finished product that rivals those produced in restaurants. There is a reason for seasoning at the beginning, in the middle, and tasting and seasoning at the end. Some fresh herbs, such as rosemary and sage, are great added in the beginning because longer cooking helps develop their flavor, others are more delicate, like parsley and chives, and need to be added at the very end. Fresh herbs are readily available today in most good grocery stores, but are often a bit on the pricey side. The easiest and least expensive way to have access to those herbs you like to use regularly is to grow them yourself. It is not difficult. Most herbs are very tough & undemanding. It does not take a lot of space. You can do it even if you live in a place that has cold winters.
I started growing my own culinary herbs about twenty-five years ago - just pots on the back steps. I began with basil during the summer because it is my absolute favorite and I love making pesto; parsley because it is versatile and chives because they are really easy and we love them in scrambled eggs. Soon I added rosemary and sage and eventually oregano, thyme, tarragon, and marjoram. I didn't seem to use the tarragon or marjoram much so I eventually got rid of those. Rosemary, sage, thyme, oregano, are all perennials so during the winter months I would simply cut everything back. Over time the plants did require re potting. Several years ago I tired of this and decided to try sticking them in the ground. I selected a spot where I had room even though it did not provide optimum growing conditions - in a border against my back fence. Out came the lava rock and in went the herbs. They have done surprisingly well, in fact, the rosemary is now in need of some major pruning. Rosemary is actually an excellent drought tolerant landscaping plant here Northern California. I have also added mint in a large pot placed among the other herbs and am thinking next spring I will plant tarragon, summer savory, and perhaps some marjoram, in the area bordering our strawberry planter box. I still prefer to keep basil, parsley, and chives, in pots on the steps because I use them so frequently. The point is you don't need a lot of space or special growing conditions to grow fresh herbs. They do well in pots, they can be purchased cheaply as young plants or started from seed. If desired, they can be brought indoors in cold weather climates and put on a window sill. Most require minimal water, little or no fertilizing, and do best in full sun, but will often do equally well in sun to part shade which is the case with the herbs I planted in the ground.

Fresh herbs contribute not only flavor to your cooking, but texture and color to your garden, whether in pots or the ground, and scent to your life as well. When people think herbs they think green, but there are many shades of green, many varieties are variegated, some are feathery, some are leathery, some have broad leaves and others are needle like, plus they flower. Think of the of piny scent of rosemary or the clean spicy scent of sage or the flowery aroma of lavender? A bouquet of herbs on your kitchen counter will perfume the room and have you dreaming of Italy or Provence or maybe even Greece. And it is easy to begin experimenting with fresh herbs so you can learn what the individual flavors are really like. Yesterday for Sunday dinner, I made a simple roast chicken with thyme. The weather was finally cool enough to feel a bit like fall so I roasted it in the oven instead of on the grill. Seasoned with salt and pepper, stuffed full of fresh thyme, and rubbed with olive oil it was set on a rack in a shallow roasting pan large enough to also accommodate some vegetables. I added a good vermouth to the pan before roasting so the drippings wouldn't burn before juices were released ( I use vermouth instead of white wine because it actually IS white wine and the flavor is always reliable). The oven was set at 375 degrees. Midway into the cooking process I added quartered Yukon Gold potatoes tossed with a bit of olive oil, baby carrots, quartered yellow onion and a few cloves of garlic, everything seasoned with salt and pepper. If you like "seasoning salt," it works well here. I also poured in the broth from simmering the giblets. The kitchen was filled with wonderful aroma for hours. And just before serving I stirred some freshly chopped flat leaf parsley into the vegetables. Everything in one pan, all very easy and my husband pronounced it "delicious!" We accompanied this with some fresh green and wax beans sauteed with crimini mushrooms and a sauvignon blanc. If you aren't experienced at cooking with fresh herbs I hope you will give them a try - and maybe buy yourself a pot of flat parsley! Happy cooking!

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Is It Fall Yet?

What is in a name? Why "The Comfort Zone," you might ask, when this is a food blog? Several years ago I wrote a newspaper column by the same name. I like the name because it describes very much how I feel about good food, cooking, and gathering people at my table. Cooking should be a pleasurable experience, fun, a creative outlet, and entertaining - sharing good food with others, should be the same. There is nothing I like better than to have friends or family gathered around the table, eating, drinking, talking, laughing - to me this is the ultimate "comfort zone." So, that being said, let's get on with talking about food.

I try to adhere to the "eat local," maxim and "eat seasonally." I am a firm believer in cooking from scratch as much as possible. I support the move towards more farms becoming organic, free range chickens, grass fed beef - no hormones or antibiotics. In the long run, these things would be healthier for all of us as well as our planet. That being said - I am not a fanatic about any of these things & I recognize that at the moment some of these products remain a bit pricey for many a family budget. I also am not about to give up using some of the exotic ingredients I enjoy just because they come from India or Indonesia or something. Eating local as much as possible makes sense and not just from an environmental perspective. It also makes sense in terms of flavor because produce that is grown in your area and is in season is simply going to taste better. It is the way people used to eat. Taste a tomato picked from your own garden or a local produce stand and taste a tomato purchased from the grocery store during the winter - there is no flavor comparison. And speaking of tomatoes -

Although the calendar says it is the end of September, here in Northern California we have been experiencing summer like heat - better late than never I suppose, since this was one of the coolest summers on record in our area. The tomatoes in our garden are finally ripening. This is something I eagerly anticipate every year. I love summer tomatoes. There is just nothing better - warm from the sun, sliced and sprinkled with a bit of salt, juicy and tangy. This year we experimented and planted all heirloom varieties - only problem is we forgot to write down what we planted so we have no way of knowing which ones we might want to plant again next year! Because most of the summer was cool, the tomatoes & cucumbers poked along slowly, while the green beans and wax beans we planted did fantastic. They are now on their last legs. I also planted pickling cukes and discovered you really need more than three or four plants if you want enough cukes at one time to be able to pickle.

This is the time of year we usually are thinking about pulling out plants and contemplating whether or not to plant a winter garden, but there are still a lot of unripened tomatoes so I suspect we may later plant peas and greens for early spring instead. We finally have evenings conducive to eating dinner outside on the deck - most of the summer it was too cool and windy, so I have been thinking about hosting a late season dinner party. One of the bonuses of living where we do is that we can often entertain outdoors well into October, it simply requires giving more thought to lighting. If you have a fire pit you might even be able to serve dessert around the fire on a warmish November evening. But let's talk about possible end of summer season menus.

This is the perfect time for dishes featuring eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, anything with Mediterranean flavors. Marinate some Kalmata olives or a mix of olives with lemon and orange zest, extra virgin olive oil, & chopped rosemary. Create a salad of just tender cooked green beans and/or wax beans tossed with some sliced sweet onions, cherry tomatoes, and a simple vinaigrette, garnish with a little crumbled goat cheese. Make homemade herb & garlic butter to spread on your favorite artisan or sourdough bread either fresh or grilled a few minutes. Or make a ratatouille to serve on baguette slices to accompany a grilled leg of lamb seasoned with garlic, rosemary, and brown mustard or a lemon and garlic roast chicken stuffed with thyme or rosemary. Serve with roasted red potatoes or pasta with pesto. One of my favorite vegetarian entrees is grilled eggplant Parmesan. Slice and prep the eggplant as you usually would for the traditional version, then brush each slice with olive oil, season with your favorite herbs and grill until beginning to get tender. Then layer the slices in a pan with whole milk mozzarella cheese or if you prefer, provolone. Ladle on some marinara sauce, but don't drown the dish in it, and top with freshly grated Parmesan. Cover with foil and cook on your gas grill or charcoal by indirect method for about 30 minutes until the eggplant is tender, sauce and cheese bubbly. The flavors are lighter and fresher than the traditional dish - perfect for a warm fall evening. And let's not forget dessert. Fresh figs are often available this time of year in our area so something with figs would be appropriate or poached pears. This year I could probably track down some late season peaches to grill and serve with a scoop of good vanilla ice cream.

Don't forget to think about ambiance and presentation. Fresh herbs are great for garnishing and if you don't already grow a few pots I strongly suggest it. Rosemary, sage, and thyme are all perennials, very hardy and easy to grow. I like to use the same dishes outside that I use inside. I also like the juxtaposition of elegant and rustic or elegant and whimsical - sparkling china and glassware, napkins tied with raffia, herb bouquets, and candles in jelly jars, for instance.

There is just something special about eating out of doors. The atmosphere is always relaxed. Food always tastes good - even when the chicken skin gets a bit charred. Everyone always seems to have a good time. I hope you plan an end of summer season dinner for yourself very soon. Enjoy the best of whatever produce is still available in your area. Invite some friends to join you. Open a bottle of nice wine. And as Julia used to say "bon appetite!"